Grytviken & Fortuna Bay, South Georgia Island

(Midday position approx. S 54º 16’ / W 36º 30’)

During the brilliant early morning hours we steamed northwest along the mountainous eastern shores of South Georgia. By mid morning we arrived at the old whaling station of Grytviken in King Edward Cove of Cumberland Bay. Grytviken was once a thriving whaling station which was abandoned in the mid-1900’s. Today it serves as the island’s administrative center. In addition to the rusting remains of the whaling station and several old whaling ships half sunken in the harbor, Grytviken is also the final resting place for the famous explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton.

The night before had laid four inches of new snow over the gravel beach where we landed by Zodiac. It was a short but slippery walk up the slope to the small cemetery where we gazed upon Shackleton’s grave. Along the way we saw many Southern elephant seals, Antarctic fur seals, and a few gentoo and king penguins. We also visited the extraordinary local museum filled with curious artifacts chronicling the human and natural history of South Georgia Island.

By midday the sun was shining upon us, and we lifted anchor and sailed farther northeast into Fortuna Bay. Here, anchored near the towering spires of an enormous iceberg, we disembarked to visit a king penguin rookery. In typical South Georgia fashion the weather had changed completely. We made our way ashore amidst gusting winds, spittering rain, and occasional snow. Despite the rigors of the weather, we had a fabulous time wandering among thousands of king penguins. Today’s photo shows several adult king penguins standing above dozens of brown downy chicks. Because their breeding cycle takes more than a year to complete, we saw adult birds courting, others molting, and some feeding their large chicks. Over the whirring sound of the wind, and the clicking of our camera’s shutters, the air was filled with the cacophonous braying of the adult king penguins and sweet chirping calls of their well-bundled young.