Bolschøya Island and Edgøya Island, Svalbard

Last night we continued to sail southward, passing the southernmost point of the island of Spitsbergen (Sorkapp) before turning northeasterly toward the island of Edgøya. Soon after breakfast we were about a mile off of a low-lying offshore island called Bolschøya. This island is relatively small, almost one mile in diameter, but we soon found it to be absolutely packed with wildlife.

Our Expedition Leader, Bud, made the call for us to bundle up for a cruise in the boats, and our naturalists skillfully maneuvered the Zodiacs along the coast of Bolschøya so we could see the abounding seabirds, as well as two land-locked polar bears, one of whom was seen chasing a group of Brent’s geese. Northern fulmars (pictured here) accompanied us toward the island as they have since we boarded Endeavour in Longyearbyen. They have been our constant companions, gliding alongside the ship, sometimes in beautiful light, often times just at arm’s length. Atlantic puffins, usually not easily seen in Svalbard were nesting up on the cliffsides, and we watched them come and go to and from the entrances of their burrows, furiously flapping their wings to keep their heavy bodies airborne. Tiny black and white dovekies or “little auks” whirred about overhead, circling around and around by the hundreds, and there were even some grey phalaropes feeding just off one of the island’s points. Black guillemots, with their white wing patches and bright red feet paddled around our boats, diving in the shallow water for small fish to carry back to their chicks. Three species of jaegers (skuas) were also spotted - the Arctic (or parasitic), the long-tailed and the pomarine, while Arctic terns hovered overhead, scanning the intertidal zone for fish that become washed up against the rocks by the pounding surf.

In the middle of the afternoon we made a landing at a place called Russebukta on Edgøya, where we walked across the multi-colored, flower-covered tundra. We caught a glimpse of the unique Svalbard reindeer, some with their calves, off in the distance, and while walking past the numerous freshwater ponds, we spotted long-tailed ducks and eider ducks, both with their tiny ducklings. All in all, today was a bonanza of wildlife, wildflowers and wild scenery. Tomorrow we will be in the pack ice looking for more polar bears, seals and walrus. I can’t wait!